Easy Plumbing Repairs

Many simple plumbing repairs you can do yourself and save the cost of a service call. These plumbing repair tips are provided for your convenience but please note that Muskoka Lakes Plumbing assumes no liability should your do-it-yourself project go wrong. If you want to be sure it’s done right – call us – our rates are very reasonable.

Easy to do plumbing repairs

• For priming jet pumps, click here

• For repairing toilets, click here

Priming Jet Pumps

The objective of priming a pump is to eliminate all air from the pump and suction lines.

• Step 1. Remove plug from top of pump.

• Step 2. Fill pump to the top with water.

• Step 3. Replace plug loosely (to allow any remaining air to exit) and start the pump.

If the pump does not pump after thirty seconds, turn it off and REPEAT the above steps. This may have to be done a few times -- until all the air is out of all suction pipes and the pump rises in pressure. Tighten the plug. CAUTION: Do not run the pump too long without water as you may damage the seal. If the pump still refuses to prime after several attempts, check the suction connections for leaks -- you may be drawing air.

Plumbing repair projects can sometimes be more complicated than originally thought so if you still cannot get the pump to work, call us and we’ll send a service person to help you – 705-762-0310.

Plumbing Repairs for Toilets

Most methods of repairing toilets are easy do-it-yourself steps. The real challenge of fixing toilets is usually finding the part causing the problem. Household toilets should have a shut-off valve located somewhere near the fixture. Usually, it’s a chrome-plated compression fitting with an oval knob. So find that before making any repairs. The toilet tank's water level should fill to about 1/4" to 1/2" below the overflow pipe. Bend the float arm gently to adjust the water level; down to lower the level or up to raise it. If the arm is hard to bend or needs to be bent a lot, unscrew it first to avoid damaging the ball cock assembly. Also, some assemblies have an adjusting screw on the ball cock valve to regulate the water level. Check that the flapper (or tank ball) seats properly. Flush the toilet a few times and adjust the flapper until it seats. Adjust its chain connecting to the handle rod if needed. If the flapper seats correctly, but doesn't stop water, clean any rust or build-up around the seat opening. If the flapper continues to leak, replace it. A faulty ball cock valve (the assembly attached to the float arm) may fill the toilet tank and cause water to run continuously down the overflow tube. Always shut off the water supply before removing the valve. Sometimes, the ball cock seals can be replaced and the leak will stop. But finding and fixing the toilet problem may not be worthwhile. It's often better to replace the whole assembly so you're sure the leak will be fixed. Or upgrade to an in-line float which seems to operate and adjust a little easier than the arm-type float.

WARNING: It's easy to crack porcelain when tightening lock nuts so be extra careful when using a wrench. A condition called "back-flow" or "cross-connection" can suck toilet tank water back into the water supply line contaminating supply water if the ball cock valve is submersed.

If this plumbing repair turns out to be a bigger job than you planned, call us and we’ll send a service person to help you – 705-762-0310.